Yesterday I was able to pull off a 2nd ascent of a 5.12 crack called Howl Roof (f.a. Jeff Achey) at Main Elk, in New Castle, CO. It’s only 5.12 I know, by today’s standards, but still a hard squeeze chimney O.W. out a roof! I am just hoping this is the start of a send-fest this spring, whether its on a cragging route or a long free route. Its definitely time to wrap up some old projects that are still haunting me and get putting up those F.A.’s ive been waiting to do!
Well, I haven’t posted in a while. I’ve been just cragging a lot this summer and trying to raise my power for routes. I did get back on Moonlight and did pretty good. Led every hard pitch and only 2 falls.
Going into winter around here now and am looking forward to doing it all! Ski, ice, and rock! Just gonna enjoy it all and find some projects for the spring.
Well, I have just returned from a 3 week climbing trip in Spain! We basically tried to hit as many areas as we could in that time. Some we definitely had to stay at for awhile, or go back to, more than 1 day.
I usually go climbing in Zion or “the Creek” when I take my spring trips. This year, at the last minute, I decided to meet Mary in Barcelona as she had already committed to going there. I hadn’t been on a “sport climbing” trip in about 10 years. I’ve never been to Europe at all either. I knew the reputation of the climbing there was that it was “world class” and now the “Yosemite of sport climbing”. It is!
We started out in Barcelona where I flew in and stayed 1 night so I could get some sleep after the huge fight. Barcellona is cool city that bustles with locals, students and tourists. It has tons of restaurants and historic architecture.
As weplanned we then rented a car for 3 weeks and headed to Rodellar (row dee ar). I knew I would love it there, Tuffas and/or jugs on almost every route! We stayed there and cranked and drank cafe’ con leche’ ‘s for a week! Then it rained and so we moved on to the Lleida area which has “much o escalada”!
Next we stayed in house that some acquaintances had a deal on in Lleida. Thats when we hit up some climbing in the Camarasa, Santa Ana, Santa Linya and Margalef areas. It doesn’t matter what areas you go to climb in Spain, they’re all good! Margalef is little diferent because it’s a conglomerate rock and has pockets and cobbles and cracks on the same route!
Then some much needed resting on the beach in Tarragona.
Then we went to Suirana to finish the trip off. Suirana is awesome! Good camping, walk to everything, and a restaurant and bar on site.
After Suirana we hit a heat wave for the last 2 days of the trip. We did do one more route. We went in search of a multi-pitch route since we hadn’t done one yet. We found the perfect route for tired and hot climbers to do. It was a 4 pitch .10 alongside a river in Sharma’s town (yes, another Shwarma name drop). It had HUGE cobbles and was vertical and FUN! The perfect end to the month long Spain trip. I can’t wait to come back here…SOON!
Or should I say, Sunburned-back? We got to Zion late Thursday night and the next day got a noon start on the Silverback, a .12+ that faces totally, sunny, south! With the late start we only did the first 5 pitches, but man it probably only got better! A couple pitches of chimney and off-width got us to the headwall. Pitch 3 is a sweet 5.11 mixed dihedral “outing”. The cruxes are bolted on that one because of it being thin enough not to allow any pro. The next 5.10+ is also mixed becausee of the poor, sandy rock face climbing, that takes you to a squeeze section for a bit. The next is the “MONEY” pitch of the route for quality. There are soo many #2 cam hand jams in the 100′ flake on the wall! There are few bolts so you don’t have to bring, like 8-10 #2′s! The day was getting late and the sun had been hot so we decided to head down. Next time up we will have to continue by tackling a 5.12 off-width and then a 5.12+ tips crack that ends out a roof! Another classic in Zion.
This spring we are, believe it or not, going on a sport climbing trip, to SPAIN! I think its gonna be a blast!
Ya, I’m pretty obsessed with the “full-on” adventure of climbing in the Black Canyon! Mary and I were able to go climb there together this weekend because our “little man” is at the grandparents house for awhile. We have to go multi-pitching separate nowadays because of our duties with Sam (Boo).
We went to the South Rim, which is the north facing shady side. We jumped right in, after sleeping in, and did the top pitches of Astro Dog .11+. The next day we got on an older route put up by Leonard Coyne and Keith Reynolds, Dragon Rider .12-. This is one of the best routes I’ve done there because of all the “perfect hands” pitches on the route. The hardest, and crux pitch of it, was the .12- off-width. That thing beat us done a little but we got up it. Another memorable pitch (they were all good! except for one crumbly peg pitch) was a .10 that traversed left under a roof and then exited the roof via perfect hands! The route was in the shade all day too. It was a perfect outing, lots ‘o hands, a beat down by a wide crack, and a “last minute of light” top-out!
These are some of the best climbing pics I have so far. Some are from very reputable “photogs” and are noted.
Recently I got the chance to do another route in the Black Canyon. It was surprisingly good temps in the shade, but we did start climbing at 5:45 a.m. The route was Veterans With Vertigo IV 5.11+. I thought, why doesn’t this route get any talk or hype? It had long crack pitches and a 5 star face climbing crux that was more like .12-. The route can go quick for a 1200′ outing and is in the shade until about 2 p.m. So here are some pics and it now on Mountain Project too: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/veterans-with-vertigo/107222256